On a cerulean blue background, we will see the face of a person in profile, a hand, an arm and an stomach marked with a tattoo representing a satan in a fragmented composition. Figurative however influenced by surrealism, these scattered components kind a portray commissioned by Gucci from Andrew Moncrief, a 35-year-old Canadian artist residing in Berlin, whose fame continues to be rising. This work and 4 others from the identical collection, known as “Shifting Masculinities,” had been exhibited within the Florentine model’s boutique on Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris in June. This was alongside unsold Gucci-branded clothes that Mr. Moncrief wore whereas portray, now dirty with acrylic and oil paint.
“I’ve by no means been a clothier,” mentioned the painter. Mr. Moncrief, who has no gallerist (however an agent in New York) and made his debut on the age of 21, has turn into identified for his lavish work that debone and disembowel male our bodies rearranged in collages. Till now, he had by no means labored for a ready-to-wear model, as an alternative observing this milieu from a distance. He was not conversant in the habits and customs of the style world.
He solely knew Alexandre Mattiussi, the founding father of AMI. The designer, who had been constructing a stable private assortment for a number of months, below the recommendation of the gallery proprietor Suzanne Tarasiève specifically, is considered one of his purchasers. “From Gucci, I vaguely pictured the highly effective prints, the moccasins, however nothing else,” mentioned the painter. Earlier than accepting the proposal, Mr. Moncrief cautiously sought the recommendation of the British gallerist Robert Diament, co-host of the “Speak Artwork” podcast, who had obtained help from the Italian home in 2021 for an exhibition in Kent. “He inspired me to say sure.”
Creative pizzazz and social media
Mr. Moncrief is way from the one rising painter wanted by the style and luxurious business. Specifically, the phenomenon gained momentum with the success of Dior Males’s spring-summer 2021 assortment, which was created in tandem with the then lesser-known Ghanaian painter Amoako Boafo (he has since turn into in style at public sale). On the identical time, the designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin was showcasing 31-year-old Jean Claracq, a rising protégé with French designer agnès b., by exhibiting him at a presentation in 2021 and alluring him to design tops and shorts for the spring-summer 2022 assortment.
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This summer season, Off-White selected Dian Liang, a younger and nonetheless unknown Chinese language artist, to create a mural in Shanghai. On the identical time, Simon Porte Jacquemus took benefit of his high-profile marriage to promote T-shirts designed by Pepo Moreno, a younger Spaniard who intertwines childlike aesthetics and provocative slogans, the income of that are donated to a company combating homophobia. To his credit score, Mr. Moreno had already designed T-shirts for Archie Alled-Martinez, window shows for Desigual and shops for Vans. In September, Marni additionally unveiled sunny prints ensuing from a collaboration with Flaminia Veronesi, a rising 36-year-old Italian star, throughout a present in New York.
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